Besides the main landmarks, it is worth setting aside time in Bukhara for places where the real rhythm of the old city comes through. In the evening, it's worth walking along the walls of the Ark Fortress, once the heat drops and the crowds thin out. Lyab-i Hauz is better closer to sunset than during the day, when the teahouses by the pond fill with locals rather than just tourists. The Toki Telpak Furushon and Toki Zargaron trading domes are more interesting early in the morning, before the main shops open, while craftsmen are just starting their day. The Samanid Mausoleum, tucked away in a park, stays quiet almost year-round even in high season. These spots let you see the city at an unhurried pace, off the standard tourist route.
